The Breakaway Switch:

This devise is only used in an emergency if your RV comes
disconnected from the tow vehicle when traveling; it is designed to apply the
trailer brakes full on. A battery must be on the RV for it to function. This devise
must NOT be used as a park brake; it will drain the battery and could cause
damage to the brake magnets.

RV Fridge:

For your RV fridge to properly operate it MUST be level during
operation. A fridge running off level will not only fail to cool it can also receive
damage to the cooling unit cause from overheating. Your RV fridge also takes
approx. 4 hours to reach operating temperature.

Air Conditioner:

The air conditioner compressor requires just a fewer than 20AMPs
of power to startup and run, it will not work if you’re using an insufficient gauge
extension cord. Also most household outlets are on a 15AMP breaker so your AC
may not run when plugged in at home; it could trip the breaker in the house.

Awnings:

A large number of insurance claims are made each year due to damages
caused by an awning. Be sure that you are using the travel locks in transit; also be
sure you are not unlocking the awning once you have put it away, when the
awning is down and you switch the lever to roll it back up it is in the correct
position for travel, do not switch the lever again until you are ready to roll it
down. The most common cause of awnings being damaged and causing other
damages is that they are left out unattended and the weather changes. It does not
take very much wind or rain to come while you are sleeping or gone to the beach
to rip your awning from your unit and have on the phone to your insurance agent
needing to make a claim.

RV Batteries:

The proper battery for your RV is a deep cycle battery. They come in
many different sizes ranging from a standard battery with 100 minute reserve
capacity to 2 6 volts with 450 minutes reserve. What to buy would depend on your
camping needs. The reserve is calculating on a 25-AMP draw, so if you were using
5AMPS of power your battery would last 5 times the reserve. For an idea most RV
furnaces draw 5-8 AMPS and a single light bulb draws about 1.5 AMPS. The usage
of the power should be able to help you calculate how long your battery will last.
When charging the battery; it can take some time depending on how large your
reserve is to fully recharge an RV battery. Conventional ways to charge an RV
battery by using your built in converter charge or a tow vehicle charge line only
offer around 5 AMPS so if you used 10 AMPS for 5 hours and drove home 3 hours
charging at 5 AMPS your battery would not be full. The deep cycle batteries are
NOT maintenance FREE so the fluid levels should be checked regularly and topped
up with distilled water when low. And because batteries have water in them they
must be stored in a heated place during the winter months to avoid freezing and
cracking.

Waste System and Monitor Panel:

When using your RV toilet, rapid dissolving RV
toilet paper MUST be used. Regular household toilet paper does not properly break
down and can cause your waste tank to become plugged or it can be caught up in
gate valve seals causing a leak the next time the tank is used. Toilet chemical is
also required for the waste tank to combat odors. After using the holding tanks it
is recommended to thoroughly flush out the tanks with fresh water, this will help
the monitor systems for tank levels in an RV are not always fully accurate, false
readings can be caused by a number of circumstances such as condensation or
debris inside a tank. Wash wands for toilet tanks are available.

Maintenance:

Your RV has many things that require regular maintenance, some of
these things are: Batteries as listed under batteries above. Roof seals, anything
attached to the roof of your RV, such as roof vents has a sealant around it to
prevent leaks, over time this seal will deteriorate or crack and need to be touched
up or replaced (the type of sealant is dependent on the roof material) this should
be inspected twice a year. Wheel bearings are recommended to be repacked once
per year at which time brake wear can be inspected. Propane gas system leak and
pressure test should be done each year. Wheel lug nuts torque should be checked
before each trip and set to 100 foot-pounds.

Winterizing:

The plumbing system in your RV requires to be winterized with non
toxic RV antifreeze each fall to ensure your unit does not have any freeze ups.
Your RV dealer can do this for a cost (the gray and black tanks must be emptied by
the customer prior). If you choose to perform the winterizing yourself be sure not
to put the antifreeze in the fresh water holding tank, use a bypass hose on the
pump and suck from the antifreeze jug, also be VERY sure not to miss any of the
steps or procrastinate on getting the job done before the weather turns, a mistake
could be very costly.

Warranty:

Warranty refers to manufacturer defects or failures. Maintenance issues
are NOT covered under warranty. Warranty will NOT cover issues that are caused
by the misuse or accidental damage. Extended warranty covers component failures;
it does NOT cover anything structural about the unit or manufacturer defects and
does NOT cover maintenance issues or misuse.

Tips For When You Drop Your Unit Off For Service:

Don’t put stabilizer jacks down.
Do not leave blocks or wheel chocks. If the service item might be hard to spot by
the technician try to mark it with something like a post it note or see if there is
someone available to come out to your unit to see the issue. Always try and
answer three questions about each request WHAT, WHERE & WHEN. It will help the
technician come to resolution more often. If you say my window leaks then it could
be hard to diagnose the problem. If you say my front window on the passenger
side leaks when I am driving in the rain then it could be solved easier.